I lied.

Yeah I forgot the stupid camera so no sweet pics of the wheel build. Just google Inustry Nine or something. Anyways the rear wheel built up great as well. I did notice that the rear drive side spokes when up to tension were pretty much threaded all the way into the hub. Considering the customer had problems with his 355's I wanted to set these up towards the high end of the tension spectrum. We had a discussion about the possible results of this on the No Tubes rims (not eyeletted) and he is well aware of the benefits vs. the possible outcome. Which would be possible cracking over a shorter time period.

Edit: So cell phones continue to blow my mind. Pic of hub after lace up yesterday. Did you know you can upload your pics to your cell phone account online? That is crazy.

I figure with the switch to Arches and the consistent tension this should be enough to make them solid. Still I am surprised at their choice of drive side spoke length. The fronts run one length and have plenty of thread on either side to work with. I couldn't even over-tension the rear if I wanted to. The spokes on the front were setup towards the high end as well. The way they tension up even when properly lubricated makes it seem they would bind pretty badly even if you tried to over tension them. They definitely wind after a certain tension indicated by the (sometimes permanent) rotation of the laser etched logo.

Otherwise lots of exercise crap and a fair amount of downhill and xc skis. Tis the season I suppose. I got lazy and "forgot" to get a pair of our rentals so I could get some skiing time in this weekend. I think since the hip is better I might have to get the fixie out for some fun winter play. In it's current configuration it should handle the conditions well. I do need to gear it down though. The 35/16 combo is a little tough with the 42c Mythos out back. I am thinking of gearing down to 34/17 or even 35/18 and then switching the rear tire to match the front XDX.

My customer also left me the old 355's. The front is a little bent, but it would be nice to see if I could get that one straight. The rear is spot on and only ridden about 200 off road miles. I would almost like to relace my fixie cross to those rims. Then I can run the worry free tubeless. I might just have to try out the Cyclocross rimstrips first.

The other thing I want to have done is have my canti mounts relocated. The frame in question is made of ti so it could get costly. I might just have to try a Paul V-brake. That might take care of the issue as well as be a pretty sick match up to my Arch Supreme front brake (ironically the other matching brake would be relegated as it sits now to the drawyer where it is already residing.)

Peace out for the week. I'll post up something this weekend if I am feeling bored. Which this time of year happens. I am not down with the daily posting stuff, nor the norm/trend of not posting on the weekends. As nobody really reads this anyways, this is really starting to become some kind of "journal." I would like to think that it is more along the lines of a personal highlight reel and place to spew all the crazy bike related ideas I get.

Word up.

Edit #2- So Paul Components make a brake that rocks. And from what I remember they ask you if you either like pirates, or celebrate pirate day. I am ordering one of these brakes on Monday.

MOTO BMX

Do you want to put 1 3/8" (mini) wheels on your standard BMX frame? How about 700c wheels on your mountain bike? These brakes are the answer. Our unique pad mounting system made it easy to offer this variation. In both cases a short reach lever is recommended. Drop bar levers work great too.